One really fun way to see Old Manila is on the entertaining walking tour offered by Carlos Celdran. He’s a walking comedy act, in fact a trained actor who’s been taking people around Intramuros for several years now. And this is much more than a boring walking tour, it’s part history, part theatre, and 100% fun.

His ‘If these walls could talk’ tour sets out most Saturdays at about 9am from outside the Manila Cathedral in Intramuros and takes a couple of hours ending at the San Augustine Monastery and Cathedral – a World Heritage site. Along the way you get the full four hundred year Philippines history from the time Legaspi claimed it for the Spanish Crown through to American colonisation, the devastating WWII bombing and finally the Marcos era when shoe-collecting Imelda did some good and had Intramuros largely rebuilt.

You learn all this from Carlos, who periodically dons different guises, costumes and props to make it more interesting. 

The tour costs 800 pesos, including entrance fees and refreshments. Find out which days this month it’s going here; 

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Manila by night
So, what is there to do by night in Manila. It’s hardly got the reputation of say, Bangkok. Well, Manilaneros do like to party themselves and there are some tourist areas that a busier at night but it certainly is a lot calmer, certainly after the Mayor of Manila decided to clean up all the sleaze during the Nineties.

This means, gone are all the girlie bars of Ermita and Malate, which is still considered the most central of the city’s tourist hotel districts. The action now seems to have moved more to Makate, the modern part of the city which is like a twenty-first century time warp in this otherwise third world capital. Here you’ll find plus malls, good restaurants and plenty of bars (yes some with girlies inside), and it’s where the monied of Manila hand out.

For Manila night life Let’s start with Ermita which is now a bit down at heel, so you need to keep your wits about you wandering some of the darker streets at night, there’s lots of beggers and touts hanging around. There are also still a handful of girlie bars such as the LA Cafe on Del Pilar, step inside and there you will find 10 girls to every guy, if this is not your thing don’t even bother stepping as a man, you’ll be mobbed (really). There are some others in the area that are quieter and less in your face.

For real bars where you can drink undisturbed and hang out, there are trendy lounge joints in Malate in the area of J Nakpil street near remedios circle, perhaps the greatest concentration in the city of its kind. Wander across to the waterfront and there quite a few al fresco restaurants – drinking places.

In Makate the action is all in the malls which is a bit sterile but a good place to start out on a Friday evening when the atmosphere is good, eat here and move on with the crowd. There is a more upmarket girlie street (Burgos street) otherwise you’ll find the expats and professional locals at the bars on Jupiter and Nicanor Garcia streets.

Id you want to to hang out with the students in the Manila night life try the discoson Tomas Morato and Timog avenues out near Quezon City (where there is a big uni), it’s a bit of way out though.

It’s unfortunate when a country has a terrorism problem in one region that affects the whole country’s image. In the Philippines there is this long running insurgency in Southern Mindanao with Abu Sayyaf, and kdinappings make world headlines regularly, thus scaring away tourists. A few years back they kidnapped a group of dive tourists which was devastating to Philippines tourism. Even today the country only gets 2 million tourists (compared to Thailand’s 16 million), which is a shame since the Filipinos are equally as nice, the islands’ often more beautiful and the experience generally cheap and good value. It IS A SAFE place to visit generally.

During my recent trip I experienced no hassles really. No pickpockets, mugging attempts, aggression, persistent touts (which is more than I can say for Vietnam), and no real risk of infectious disease, violence etc. I’ve been in more relaxing places but mostly felt safe and calm, and secure with the people around me. Even Manila, which is crime infested didn’t seem much of a problem to me.

This needs to be made more clear to potential visitors. Sure there’s thugs and mafia types, and plenty of poor people so you get theft, which explains why you see armed guards outside of banks, but fortunately none of these bothered me. Some areas are well policed by the tourist police, like Boracay, because they value their tourists. Other places are too low key for criminals to bother operating. In Manila you would need to have your wits about you, especially in Ermita where lots of petty thieves and  homeless hang out. I also understand there is a problem with dishonest cops who like to set up foreigners so they can solicit a bribe, they are pretty ill-disciplined like this. For example local expats warned me not to even consider buying the viagra and other things being sold by street vendors, since they are illegal and no sooner have you bought some a cop suddenly appears out of the blue and arrests you, then insists on a bribe to let you go. 

But stick to the main tourist areas and avoid anything vice-like and you’ll be amazed at how safe it can be, and what all the hype is about. Often I mingled with the locals and wandered the local towns, away from tourist guarded places and had no trouble, nor was accosted.

The Philippines is a huge archipelago, to be sure, and a first time visit might only manage to take in a few of the many islands. From the mountains of Bagiuo in North Luzon to the southern beaches of Palawan, the Philippines stretches several thousand kilometres, so you have to pick and chose.

On my very first visit to the islands I spent a few days in Manila, and though it’s not the most attractive tourist city in Southeast Asia, there are some interesting sites to hang around for, such as Intramuros, some of the grand old family homes, the Coconut Palace and even the vast Mall of Asia (Asia’s biggest), as well day trips to volcanos and islands in the bay.

Of course Boracay is top of everyone’s Philippine itinerary and for good reason. Even though it’s quite developed it’s still very beautiful, perhaps one of the most perfect stretches of tourist beach in Asia. This three kilometers of white sand, aqua water and coconut palms is gorgeous and the development has been tasteful and is free of vehicle traffic. If you stay at the ends of the beach it can be very peaceful and exclusive, while bars, restaurants and tourist services, plus shopping are a 10 minute walk away.

Bohol is another favourite, on account of its bizarre Chocolate hills (conicals originally formed by uplifted coral formations ), and unlike Boracay the island itself offers fantastic sightseeing inland, including the Loboc river lunch cruise, lush forests and interesting historical churches and landmarks. But there are nice beaches too such as Alona beach, where the divers head.

Cebu city is useful only as a hub really, and it’s own Mactan Island resorts are overpriced and fake. If you want some city life, it can me a more manageable version of Manila, with entertainment and shopping.

I chose to take some local travellers advice and after bussing down across Panay and Negros islands from Boracay, I ended up at Siquijor, a small mysterious island North of Mindanao. It doesn’t get many tourists so the locals are ultra friendly and curious and though the island lacks too many decent beaches there are some nice resorts and the island as a whole is lush, prosperous and quaint. It also has a history of witchcraft. Nearby is Apo island which is one of the best areas in the Philippines for unspoilt diving (ie not ruined by dynamite fishing).

Surfers make a bee-line for Siargao, which is the eastern-most island, off the tip of Mindanao. It gets excellent reef breakers at Cloud resort area but for those without boards it’s also a very unspoilt, down to earth (poverty laden) island, and quite a few foreigners have made their home here, enjoying excellent beaches and shore-front homes.

Bancas and beachlife

Cruise the islands of the world’s second largest archipelago, from Luzon in the North to frontiers of Palawan. There’s thousands of islands and many more gorgeous beaches waiting to be discovered, and the island hopping starts here.

This Philippines travel blog is the beta version of a 100 page, picture laden site, rich in travel tips and essential info, coming soon. We’ve been all over Southeast Asia seeking out the best spots and they’re all here on this site to help make your travels easier and more rewarding.

Whether you are coming to dive, sail, treat yourself to fresh seafood, mingle with the locals, soak up the sun, trek volcanic peaks or simply lie on the tropical beaches, the Philippines promises an excellent holiday. Start planning it here.

One fantastic way to experience the Philippines is to hire your own private villa on one of the islands, and you can find plenty of choices on sites like self catering breaks.